____Gizzard Shad Information____

You will find that Raystown Lake has a large population of gizzard shad. The ideal size for bait is 5 to 12 inches. 

Characteristics: Gizzard shad can reach 4 inches in length during the first year of life. They Prefer low gradient waters with an abundance of phytoplankton. Gizzard shad exhibit the typical herring body shape with a wide body that is stocky in nature. Color ranges from bright silvery blue-green on the back, silvery sides and a dull white belly. A dark shoulder spot is common on younger fish but may be absent from adults. The front of the head is rounded with a sub terminal mouth. Bottom jaw or lip is not very strong. Teeth are absent. There are about 190 rakers on the lower limb of the first gill arch. The eyes have adipose eyelids with vertical slits. Body scales are cycloid with no lateral line present. The ventral scales are keeled. Dorsal fin rays number 10 to 12 with the last ray elongated into a thin whip like filament. This fin is inserted slightly behind the pelvic fin. An auxiliary process is present at the base of the pelvic fin. The anal fin has 27 to 34 rays, and the caudal fin is deeply forked.

Gizzard shad prefer sluggish rivers and soft-bottomed lakes. The fish is synonymous with mud. It is found most commonly in open water near the surface. The fish are random, nocturnal group spawners in shallow bays, coves, or sloughs with no care given to the young. Eggs are released near the surface of the water from late April or early May to early August at 50 to 70 degrees F. The eggs are adhesive and sink. The females are prolific, producing up to 400,000 eggs that are about .03 inch in diameter.

The species is an omnivorous filter feeder taking both phytoplankton and zoo plankton, which are then ground in the gizzard section of the gut. Some bottom material is often ingested while feeding; hence, the name mud shad or mud feeder. Its flesh or sides as commonly referred to, and particularly the gizzard or gut are great catfish bait. Dense shad populations provide considerable forage as young for other predatory fishes, and their schooling behavior during the first year make them easy prey for larger fish. Some controversy surrounds this forage value, however, as shad quickly outgrow the vulnerable forage size and rapidly assume pest levels in some closed watersheds or when predator populations are insufficient to control their numbers. Massive die offs of young and yearling shad are commonly reported after spring ice-out as a result of their susceptibility to fluctuating water temperatures.

____Catching And Keeping Shad____

Use a cast net. You need a cast net permit on Raystown Lake and the net size is limited to 12 ft. Diameter with mesh not smaller than 3/8 inch. 

Shad Tanks: You need a good tank that is designed to keep shad in, such as the oval or round Ron Vest Super Tank 2. For information on these tanks in the central PA region, call Snyder's Run Bait And Tackle 814-643-3828

Temperatures: Shad kept between 50-62 degrees are best. Warm water means lower oxygen levels. Cool your water by adding ice, but do it slowly, rapid temperature change can result in shock or death. Three degrees per minute is a good guideline. Do not use ice that has chlorine in it.

Chemicals: Salt is one of the most important ingredients. Use rock or solar salt, never iodized. One lb. for 30 gal. Hardens and bonds scales to shad. Replaces valuable electrolytes lost due to stress. Another important ingredient is something that can lock up the ammonia in the water. Use one of the newer liquid ammonia locks. Follow the directions carefully.

Ammonia: Caused by waste products from shad resulting in red nose, loss of scales, loss of color, dead shad and dirty foamy water. 

Foam: Caused by ammonia and dirty water. Foam on the water cuts down on the oxygen level. Non dairy coffee creamer works well. Using a product like "Foam Out" allows proper oxygen transfer. Add 1/2 teaspoon or until foam disappears.

Bait Saver: 1 tablespoon per 10 gallons helps coat scale damaged areas, eliminates chlorine and trace metals.

Red Nosed Shad: If you experience this you are doing something wrong. Caused by stress, over crowding, using a improper tank or chemical mix.

Amount: Two shad per gallon of water. Adjust this formula with the season. The hotter the weather, the less shad in the tank.

* The effort you put forth in caring for bait will greatly enhance your ability to catch stripers.

*Subscribers of our newsletter are kept informed as to the best locations on the lake to net shad throughout the year and how to fish them!

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